As you have probably realised by now, I loooove a bit of op-shopping. There's a good one on the way home from work which is open late so whenever I get the chance I pop in for a bit of a rummage. A couple of years ago I struck gold and found an uncut Vogue1548, size 10 for 99c. I have to confess that I didn't actually know it was such a desirable pattern until I got home and did some googling. Crazy stuff.
Fast forward to the end of last year and the same op-shop turned up trumps again.. this time with Simplicity7705, a DVF knock off. What was going on? Had a wrap dress-loving person donated their entire awesome pattern stash to Savers where is was slowly released into the shop? The sewing gods were clearly in my corner.
I actually made the V1548 a while ago but never blogged it - not sure why. Maybe knowing that it isn't the best thing I've ever made but that the pattern is the bees knees made me think that it wasn't worth it somehow. However, I recently finished Simplicity7705, decided to stop being so silly and do a little comparison of construction, fit and finished product of each pattern.
Vogue1548 (size 10)
The pattern description is as follows: wrapped dress (can be worn forward or backward) with fitted bodice and flared skirt, three inches below mid-knee or evening length, has full-length sleeves, pockets in side seams and attached tie ends that wrap and tie at waistline.
Suggested fabrics are light stretchable fabrics such as cotton knits, jersey knits and lightweight double knits. DVF dresses are famously made with silk jersey but as this was supposed to be a wearable muslin, I used a stable cotton knit with a bit of weight to it that I picked up in Spotlight a while ago fro $3 p/m- rather easier on the pocket! This dress is a real fabric eater because of the half circle skirt - I think I used almost 3m of 150cm wide fabric although possibly I could have laid out my pattern pieces more efficiently.
I followed the instructions fairly closely. The construction of this dress is interesting - the instructions are more what you would expect from a woven rather than a knit, but are really clear. It has interfaced facings and the sleeves are set in instead of put in flat (I deviated from the instructions here) and sewn with a 1.5cm seam allowance. I sewed each seam on the machine using a slight zig zag stitch then used the overlocker to finish them instead of sewing twice as instructed.
|Rather too much "front' here but you can see how low the wrap goes!|
All facings were interfaced and I followed the instructions to hand stitch them to the inside of the bodice. It looks OK - you can just see the stitches through the dress and I think with more careful sewing it would have looked better (Cut Cut Sew did a great job on hers for example).
I haven't hemmed the dress yet and I can see from these pictures that the hem is seriously uneven! I like the midi length though -- it'll work with boots for winter. For a summer version, I'd go a bit shorter but it's nice to have a skirt which such a good twirl factor :)
Fit wise, it's pretty good. This is the size 10 which is just a bit smaller than my measurements. The neckline is a bit low - it definitely needs a singlet underneath for work - but the wrap feels quite secure. It's perhaps a little bit big across the shoulders and could do with a small FBA; there is some pulling there. Black silk jersey for the next one ?
I'm very fortunate to have found this pattern and I've leant it to a couple of sewing friends so I'm looking forward to seeing their versions!
I made this up (size 12 pattern which corresponded with my measurements) in a viscose knit that I picked up on sale in Wellington on a trip to the Fabric store with some of the Kiwi sewing bloggers. It's probably a bit drapier than intended for this pattern but I thought that the large scale print would work well as a wrap dress. It used less fabric than the DVF dress - around 2.5m I think. I sewed it the same as the other dress - sewing machine for the seams, finished on the overlocker.
I decided to leave in the bust and back darts but folded out the sleeve/elbow dart. I also left off the cuffs and rather fabulous 70's collar , although I think they would look good in a firmer knit or woven and would make the dress look closer to the DVF original.
Construction -wise it went together easily although it's worth noting that some of the steps were for both knit and wovens (adding interfacing to the bodice for example was optional.) I added knit interfacing to the bodice and wrap (interestingly the facings are not interfaced in this pattern) and I stabilised the shoulders and waistline with clear elastic.
The instructions call for three hooks and eyes to close the bodice, but I used small snaps instead. I also added a small snap to secure the wrap - the gape-age was pretty serious without. Due to the large scale nature of the print and a complete disregard to the aforementioned print when cutting out the pattern I ended up with a dress that looked very different depending on which way it was wrapped. Instagram came to the rescue (again) and unanimously voted for this wrap direction. At least I hope that's what everyone meant when I asked "left or right" ... Hmmm, now I'm starting to worry that I picked the best side!
The fit is OK - the bodice feels too big at the sides and the sleeves are quite wide, although it would be interesting what the fit would be like in a woven. I must just have to make another one up to compare!
This dress was hemmed a little shorter - but still in midi territory - using some stretch lace from the op-shopped stash.
So, what do you think? Which pattern do you prefer? Do you have any suggestions to improve the fit?